The Secret of Chanel No. 5
Tilar Mazzeo
2010
217 pages
Published by Harper
This is actually a short book, and there are a lot of rumors and supposition included. Despite that, it’s still an interesting and informative look at the history of one of the world’s most famous perfumes. There’s also a lot of Coco Chanel’s personal history included, as it would be impossible to mention one without the other.
I don’t know that I’ve ever smelled Chanel No. 5 (most perfumes make me sneeze, so I tend to hold my breath as I walk past perfume counters). Still, the author did such a fabulous job with The Widow Clicquot and the history of Veuve Clicquot, that I snapped up her latest almost as soon as it hit the shelves.
I found the brief section on Coco Chanel’s childhood (mother dies, father sticks his daughters in a convent orphanage) and early adulthood (showgirl, mistress, milliner) fascinating. Actually, her whole life is fascinating, especially since I knew nothing about her. Her signature perfume is reflective of her early years, and her slightly sordid past. The convoluted relationship she had later in life with her own creation, and the company (and men) who controlled it, are also somewhat indicative of her own murky beliefs (anti-Semitic, maybe a Nazi collaborator, maybe not, an independent woman who still preferred to be kept). Coco Chanel was certainly a convoluted woman, and the book only touches on her strange life.
Of course, Chanel herself is meant to take a backseat (although she’s more like a backseat driver), as this is the story of her perfume. The author touches a bit on the history of perfume in the early 1900s, when Chanel was begining to dream up her own scent. For example, I learned that in the 1920s, there were five categories of perfume: oriental, fougère, leather, chypre, and floral. Oriental scents are based on the amber scents of barks and resins. Fougère scents are meant to evoke ferny, woodsy smells. Leather scents are based on quinolines, not leather, but they are reminiscent of leather with their smoky tones. Chypre is the oldest fragrance category, named after the island of Cyprus, and said to be Aphrodite’s scent. Chypre perfumes are based on bergamot and wood and citrus smells. Finally, there are the self-explanatory florals, worn by respectable women. Chanel’s goal was to take the florals and give ‘em a sexy edge. She wanted to blend the fragrances of prostitutes and good girls, and incorporate a nice clean, scrubbed scent into it. Sounds complicated, but with the help of a talented perfumer, some pricey materials from the famous flower fields of Grasse, a liberal addition of the new-fangled discovery of aldehydes, and an old recipe for a perfume for the royal family of Russia, she was able to realize the scent she had dreamed of.
Due to some canny marketing strategies, Chanel was able to make her perfume a hot commodity. But after a few years she had to turn over the control and distribution to a separate company, as she did not have the resources to meet demand. From there, the history of Chanel and her perfume will diverge and meet, diverge and meet, and she alternately distances herself from her creation, and interferes, and tries to regain control. It’s a stormy history…and it could’ve been a bit boring in parts, but as I mentioned, it’s a short book, and the story rolls right along. And it would’ve been even shorter, but the author included quite a few rumors, as there are huge gaps in the story that will probably never be known.
As far as biographies of inanimate objects go, this is a good one.
Fascinating. I know nothing about Chanel No. 5, except the name, and yet, I’m strangely drawn to this.
Melissa (Book Nut)´s last [type] ..10 Questions for Alan Silberberg
That was pretty much where I was at, going into it.
This book sounds fascinating, not only for the bits about the perfume, but for the bits about Coco Chanel as well. I really think that this would be something that would interest me, and although I have never owned a bottle of Chanel, I love perfume, body sprays, and all the other smelly-good stuff. I am adding this one to my list and must say that I thought your review was fantastic!
zibilee´s last [type] ..The Language of Baklava by Diana Abu-Jaber — 352 pgs
I’m sure it would be even more interesting if you were into perfume!
I enjoyed Mazzeo’s book about the Widow Clicquot as well, so I’m going to look for this one. Thanks for the review.
Suzanne´s last [type] ..Im a Stylish Blogger
This one is much shorter…there are a lot of murky areas in the story.
Sounds very interesting! I just put it on hold at my library!
Lahni´s last [type] ..Pope Joan by Donna Woolfolk Cross
Yay for your library! Mine didn’t have it.
I think I would rather read a biography of her; she sounds fascinating.
Trisha´s last [type] ..Book Review- Jumpstart the World
I started out liking her, until I read about what she did during WWII (the men who owned the perfume company were Jewish, and she tried to take advantage of the fact that they couldn’t own property under the laws of the Third Reich).
This sounds totally and completely interesting! I don’t wear perfume, either (none of the women in my family do; we have very sensitive skin) but my grandmother still has a bottle of Chanel No. 5 in her bathroom cabinet. Who knows how long that’s been in there.
Have you read Perfume by Patrick Suskind? That’s a novel, but you might enjoy it.
heidenkind´s last [type] ..Preliminary Thoughts on Apollos Angels
I haven’t read Perfume, but it’s one of those books I see mentioned a lot!
I don’t care much for the fragrance, but her life and the life of the perfume sound FASCINATING. I can feel my dollars slipping away on this one already.
Andi´s last [type] ..A Readerly Shift- or E-Books Saved My Life
I’m sure Homer would be thrilled if you bought it.
What a great review! I really want to go out and read this book now. My grandpa was a perfumer for a French company, so I’m sure he’d have a lot to say about the subject of Chanel. I want to know more about her life, too.
She´s last [type] ..The Things They Carried – Tim O’Brien
It be fascinating to hear your grandfather’s memories of Chanel, and what he heard working in the industry!
I would have never considered this book but after reading about it here…. hmmmm…. maybe!
Sheila (Bookjourney)´s last [type] ..Could I please get a Huck Finn light
Do it…you know you want to.
I’m glad you liked this one so much. I’ll be posting my review next week a I think and yes, I found it oddly fascinating! Who knew something as simple as perfume could make me want to read more. I want to watch the biopic they made of her life, Coco before Chanel I think its called, now!
Amused´s last [type] ..In Brief
i wear a few channel fragrances but no. 5 isn’t one of them! i learned about about coco a few years back when a student wrote a piece on her. i adore memoirs and nonfiction and this sounds like a perfect read for me! thanks for the tip.
I know I have smelled Chanel No 5 before but I can’t remember anything about it. Still, I love the premise of the book and I also the cover!
Stephanie´s last [type] ..Sunday Salon- 1-9-2011
Yep, I know I would like this. I already have the champagne book on my tbr. Maybe I should buy as a set.
Care´s last [type] ..A Confession
I think I would rather read about Coco than her perfume.
Jenners´s last [type] ..Writer’s Workshop- Ideas for A Good Year
I love perfume but I can’t remember the last time I smelled Chanel No. 5. Hmmm. This sounds like a really interesting read. I’ll see if my library has it.
Vasilly´s last [type] ..TSS and Weekly Geeks- My favorite reading place
Chanel No. 5 makes me gag and gives me an instant migraine. Sounds like a fascinating story.
girasoli´s last [type] ..free week PhotoHunt
My mom used to wear Chanel No. 5 when she was going to a fancy party, and I don’t find it gagging at all.
But neither my mom nor I wear perfume at all these days. Wearing perfume has, sadly, become uncool and inconsiderate. It used to be that even everyday women had signature scents.
Beth F´s last [type] ..Weekend Cooking- Ina Gartens Vegetable Tian
I’ve just started reading a book about Coco Chanel, “The Gospel According to Coco Chanel”, which seems to be a somewhat irreverent look at Coco Chanel. I picked it up from the library — after reading it I’ll keep this one in mind if I feel like I need to delve more deeply in her character/personality!
Valerie´s last [type] ..Third Blogiversary and De-Lurking Day… Both A Day Late
I knew nothing about Coco Chanel or No5 (apart from knowing their names) and I was intrigued to go smell the perfume after I read this book! Here is my review:
http://mentalfoodie.blogspot.com/2010/12/book-review-secret-of-chanel-no-5.html
christa @ mental foodie´s last [type] ..BTT – First Book