This is why we go to the North Shore of Oahu, so Hamburger can watch the pro surfers do their thang at Bonzai Pipeline (the first four pictures are Backdoor, though, not Pipe…these are the things you learn when you live with a surfer).
Words to Live By
In a real sense, people who have read good literature have lived more than people who cannot or will not read. It is not true that we have only one life to live; if we can read, we can live as many more lives and as many kinds of lives as we wish. ~S.I. Hayakawa
The World is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page.
~St. AugustineTravel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.
~Mark Twain
I can see why there are no surfers on the gulf coast. The waves are not nearly as cool here.
Did Hamburger surf while you were there?
Yep…but not that wave!
I kind of always wanted to learn how to surf, but being me, I have intuited that it probably wouldn’t work out for me, and it might in fact even be dangerous. I sure would love to try it though! These are some great pictures. They capture everything right at the critical moments.
Nice pics. I am always in awe of surfers. They make it look so easy.
I can totally do this.
No I can’t. We tried windsurfing when we were in Oahu several years ago and that was hard enough. Unfortunately we didn’t see waves like this when we went (March-ish?)–they are quite impressive!!
What a sacrifice you make so that Hamburger watch the pipe-masters.
I know…it’s such a hardship sitting on a sunny beach.
I’m hoping to try paddle boarding this summer.
Stand-up? I have no balance, I’d probably tip right over!
Whoops, I forgot. I’ve actually tried paddle-boarding once. It was freaky. And I had a huge audience so I was more than nervous. Later, hub told me that I never actually dipped the paddle in the water which is why I was having trouble maneuverating. (yea, I know it aint a word.)
SO I guess I get to just sit on the boat this summer instead.
Wow!! So cool. I just can’t imagine what it must feel like to actually do that. Can you even watch HB surf or is it too stressful?
No stress at all! It’s the motorcycles that cause the stress!
So cool! The north shore was almost totally deserted when I lived in Hawaii in the dark ages.
We were talking to a guy who grew up there (he was in his early 30s) who said he remembered when it was all dirt roads.
I love those pictures and can’t even imagine how cool it must be to ride inside the curly part of a wave (sorry, my surf jargon is weak). At the beaches out here, our waves are never much higher than 3-5 feet unless a storm is brewing. I might be able to surf in the horizontal position…or maybe I’ll just shout encouragement from under the umbrella on my beach chair.
Hope you had a blast–Hawaii is a state I have yet to visit.
Those are so cool! We went to the north shore when we were on Oahu in June a couple of years ago. We pulled off the road to explore some of the beaches not knowing which one we were at, and were pleasantly surprised that it was Pipeline. Of course it was summer so there were only a couple of other people on the beach, but it was still neat to see. Then we drove down the road to turtle beach and there were suddenly people everywhere and bumper to bumper traffic. I’d love to go back in winter someday to see the surfers.
Next week yo’ll have to post the pics of you on your board out there. I expect to see you standing there, riding the wave, book in hand.
Cool. We enjoyed watching people surf on the North Shore when we were there, too. We’re too boring to try it, ourselves (and old . . . and fat).